They simply plugged in an SSD from a 2013 Mac Pro. Go figure.
My understanding is that Apple (deliberately) changed the physical shape of the PCIe-SSD connector so you could not upgrade the SSD yourself.
I've seen that OWC article where they get up 1200 MB/s and though that might be still achieved by 2x link width.
They simply plugged in an SSD from a 2013 Mac Pro. Go figure.